Saturday, January 30, 2010

Chocolate Cherry Trifle

Ingredients:
2 (approximately 12 ounces each) chocolatepound cakes
1/2 cup black cherry jam
1/2 cup cherry brandy
2 cups drained bottled sour cherries (recommended: Morello)

Ingredients for custard:
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, minimum 70 percent cocoa solids, chopped
1 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon milk
1 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon heavy cream
8 egg yolks
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1/3 cup cocoa

Ingredients for topping:
3 cups heavy cream
1-ounce bittersweet chocolate


Preparing the trifle:
Slice the chocolate pound cake and make jam sandwiches with the cherry jam, and layer the bottom of a large wide trifle bowl. Pour over the cherry brandy so that the cake soaks it up, and then top with the drained cherries. Cover with cling wrap and leave to macerate while you make the custard.

Melt the chocolate on low to medium heat in the microwave, checking after 2 minutes, though it will probably need 4 minutes. Or you can place it in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Once the chocolate is melted, ser aside while you get on with the custard.

In a saucepan warm the milk and cream. Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and cocoa in a large bowl. Pour the warm milk and cream into the bowl whisking it into the yolks and sugar mixture. Stir in the melted chocolate, scraping the sides well with a rubber spatula to get all of it in, and pour the custard back into the rinsed saucepan. Cook over a medium heat until the custard thickens, stirring all the time. Make sure it doesn't boil, as it will split and curdle. Keep a sink full of cold water so that if you get scared you can plunge the bottom of the custard pan into the cold water and whisk like mad, which will avert possible crisis.

The custard will get darker as it cooks and the flecks of chocolate will melt once the custard has thickened. And you do need this thick, so don't panic so much that you stop cooking while it is still runny. Admittedly, it continues to thicken as it cools and also when it's chilling in the refrigerator. Once it is ready, pour into a bowl to cool and cover the top of the custard with cling wrap to prevent a skin from forming.

When the custard is cold, pour and spread it over the chocolate cake layer in the trifle bowl, and leave in the refrigerator to set, covered in cling wrap overnight.

When you are ready to decorate, softly whip the cream for the topping and spread it gently over the layer of custard. Grate the chocolate over the top.

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Sweet Potatoe and Praline Pie

Ingredients for pie crust:
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup finely ground pecans
1 T sugar
pinch salt
1 stick unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
2 T ice water, plus more if needed

* * * * * * * * * * *

Ingredients for filling:
1 1/2 to 2 pounds sweet potatoes, about 3 medium-sized
2 large eggs
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup pure sugar cane syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt

* * * * * * * * * * *

Ingredients for praline topping:
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup white sugar
1/4 cup pure sugar cane syrup (recommended: Steen's)
1 cup toasted pecans, lightly crushed
pinch salt

Preparing the crust:
Combine the flour, ground pecans, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and rub the butter pieces between your fingertips and thumbs, or use a pastry blender, until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Pour in the ice water and work it in until the dough holds together, being careful not to overmix. Squeeze a small amount together; if it is too crumbly, add some more ice water, a little at a time. Shape it into a smooth ball, flatten into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, and up to 2 days.

* * * * * * * * * * * *

Preparing the pie:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Roll out the dough into a circle, about 12 to 13 inches in diameter. Gently press it into a 9-inch pie pan and crimp edges with your forefinger and thumb. Prick the bottom of the pie crust all over with the tines of a fork to keep it from puffing up in the oven. Refrigerate until well chilled, about 45 minutes.

Put the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet and bake in the oven until very tender, about 45 minutes. Turn the oven down to 350 degrees F and remove potatoes from oven; allow to cool slightly before scooping the flesh into a food processor. Puree until smooth, then add the eggs, cream, brown sugar, sugar syrup and vanilla extract. Pulse a couple of times to combine, then add the cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.

Put the pie pan on a rimmed baking sheet and pour in the filling. Bake until the center is set, about 40 minutes. Let cool completely, then transfer the pie to the refrigerator.

To make the praline topping, melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and add the sugar, syrup, pecans and salt. Cook until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is smooth, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the stovetop and let cool for 5 minutes.

Remove the pie from the refrigerator and pour the praline topping over the cooled pie, spreading evenly with a spatula or by gently rolling the pie around at an angle so it hits the edges. Cool until topping has hardened, about 20 minutes. Serve.

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Friday, January 29, 2010

Orange, Pomegranate and Arugula Salad with Bellwether Carmody

This is a wonderful palate cleansing salad served before a rich entree in winter.

Ingredients:
5 oranges, preferably Cara Cara
3 T extra virgin olive oil

kosher salt

freshly ground black pepper (in a mill)

2 to 3 generous handsful of arugula

2 ounces Bellwether Carmody goat cheese, grated

— pomegranate seeds

Preparing the salad:
Use a sharp knife to slice off the ends of the oranges. Set the oranges, one at a time, on a work surface and use a sharp knife to remove the peel and pith, cutting from one end to the other and following the curve of the fruit. Continue until all the oranges are peeled.

Set a serving plate nearby.

Cut each peeled orange into 1/4-inch thick rounds, removing any seeds that you see. Set each sliced orange on the plate before you peel the next one, so that juices will collect on the plate, not the cutting surface.

Arrange the oranges in overlapping concentric circles and drizzle half the olive oil over them. Season lightly with salt and several turns of black pepper. Set aside.

Put the arugula into a medium mixing bowl, add 3 or 4 pinches of salt and toss. Add the remaining olive oil and turn the arugula so that the leaves are evenly coated. Add half the cheese, toss and mound the arugula on top of the oranges, leaving a rim of oranges exposed.

Scatter the remaining cheese and the pomegranate seeds over the salad and serve.

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Orange and Fennel, Onions and Cured Meat and Pecorino Salad

This is a wonderful palate cleansing salad served before a rich entree in winter.

Ingredients:
4 oranges, preferably Cara Cara, sliced
1 medium fennel bulb, cut into very thin crosswise slices
1 small red onion, cut into very thin crosswise slices
4 ounces Pecorino fresca, cut into very thin slices

12 very thin slices speck (a smoked salumi), duck prosciutto or jamon serrano

3 T olive oil

1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon fennel pollen

freshly cracked black pepper (in a mill)

Maldon sea salt or Diamond Crystal kosher salt

Preparing the salad:
Use a sharp knife to slice off the ends of the oranges. Set the oranges, one at a time, on a work surface and use a sharp knife to remove the peel and pith, cutting from one end to the other and following the curve of the fruit. Continue until all the oranges are peeled.

Set a serving plate nearby.

Cut each peeled orange into 1/4-inch thick rounds, removing any seeds that you see. Set each sliced orange on the plate before you peel the next one, so that juices will collect on the plate, not the cutting surface.

Arrange the oranges, fennel and onion in circles, alternating ingredients. Tuck the cheese and the meat here and there between the oranges, fennel and onion.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with fennel pollen, making sure it is evenly distributed. Let sit for 15 or 20 minutes.

Season with several generous turns of black pepper and a good sprinkling of salt and serve.

Serves 4

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Simple Orange Salad

This is a wonderful palate cleansing salad served before a rich entree in winter.

Ingredients:
6 oranges, preferably Cara Cara
3 T olive oil
2 teaspoons champagne vinegar

freshly ground black pepper (in a mill)

Maldon sea salt or Diamond Crystal kosher salt

Preparing the salad:
Use a sharp knife to slice off the ends of the oranges. Set the oranges, one at a time, on a work surface and use a sharp knife to remove the peel and pith, cutting from one end to the other and following the curve of the fruit. Continue until all the oranges are peeled.

Set a serving plate nearby.

Cut each peeled orange into 1/4-inch thick rounds, removing any seeds that you see. Set each sliced orange on the plate before you peel the next one, so that juices will collect on the plate, not the cutting surface.

When all of the oranges have been cut, arrange the slices in concentric circles, overlapping them slightly. Drizzle the oil over the oranges and sprinkle the vinegar on top. Let rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

To serve, season with several generous turns of black pepper and sprinkle with salt. Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Variations:

Scatter about 1/4 cup of fresh pomegranate seeds on top after seasoning with salt.

Use a vegetable peeler to make about a dozen or so curls of either Parmigiano-Reggiano or Vella Dry Jack. Scatter over the oranges after seasoning with salt.

Remove the pits of a dozen or so olives, either green picholine or oil-cured black, cut them in half lengthwise and scatter over the oranges after seasoning with salt.

Assemble this salad, using any or all of the variations, on individual plates.

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Chopped Chicken Liver

A creamy pate, French-style version of the classic.

Ingredients:
10 to 15 peppercorns
2 allspice berries
1 clove
4 coriander seeds
1/2 cup butter
1 onion, chopped
1 pound chicken livers
salt
1/3 cup cream
1 to 2 T brandy

bread or crackers for serving

In a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder, combine peppercorns, allspice, clove and coriander seeds; grind until fine and set aside.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-high heat; when foam subsides, add onion and cook until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add livers to pan and sprinkle with salt; cook livers on one side until they begin to brown, about 2 minutes, then flip them and cook the other side. Be sure to keep heat relatively high so that the outside of livers sears and inside stays pink.

Put onion, livers and their buttery juices into a food processor or blender with remaining butter, the cream, spices and brandy. Purée mixture until it is smooth; taste and adjust seasoning.

Put pâté in a terrine or bowl, smooth top and put in refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours or until fully set. Serve pâté with bread or crackers.

Serves 8 to 10

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Wild Rice Risotto with Steamed Mussels and Pine Nuts

Ingredients:
2 pounds mussels, preferably small PEI
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup wild rice
kosher salt
5 T olive oil
1 small red onions, minced
1 carrot, peeled and minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 small shallot, minced
1 cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice
3/4 cup zinfandel or other robust dry red wine
1 small tarragon sprig, optional
black pepper in a mill
4 cups stock or water, plus more as needed (see note below)
1 cup dry white wine
3/4 cup (3 ounces) grated dry jack cheese
2 T minced Italian parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon, optional

Note: A good poultry or meat stock contributes both flavor and structure to risotto. The very best stock for this recipe is duck but you may also use chicken stock (use 2 cups along with 2 cups of water). Mushroom stock is also a good choice. If you use water be sure to taste carefully and add salt if the risotto is a bit flat. The cooking liquid from the mussels can be strained and used for the last addition or two of stock.

Preparing the mussels:
Rinse the mussel in cool water, pull off pieces of beard, if any, and discard any mussels that are broken, light for their size or do not close when tapped. Cover and set aside.

* * * * * * * * * * * *

Preparing the risotto:
Set a small saute pan over medium heat, add the pine nuts and toast until lightly browned and fragrant, being careful that they do not burn. Immediately transfer to a bowl or piece of wax paper. Set side.

Put the wild rice into a medium saucepan and add 3 cups of cold water and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat and simmer gently until the grains just begin to pop open, about 30 to 40 minutes. Set a strainer over a bowl and pour the wild rice and cooking liquid into it. Set the wild rice aside and return the cooking liquid to the saucepan. Add enough stock or water to equal about 5 cups. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to very low and keep hot.

Put 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into a deep saute pan or medium saucepan and put the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil into a second saucepan big enough to hold the mussels. Put the onion, carrot and half the garlic into the first pan (with the 3 tablespoons of olive oil) and put the remaining garlic and the shallot into second pan. Set both pans over medium-low heat and saute until the aromatics are soft and fragrant, about 8 to 10 minutes for the onion and 7 to 8 minutes for the shallot. Season both with salt. Remove the second saute pan from the heat.

Add the uncooked rice to the cooked onion, carrot and garlic and saute, stirring constantly, until the grains turns milky white, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the zinfandel and the tarragon sprig, if using, and simmer, stirring gently, until the wine is completely absorbed by the rice. Begin adding the hot stock or water, a half cup at a time, stirring after each addition until the liquid is absorbed. When the rice is almost but not quite tender, stir in the cooked wild rice. Use tongs to remove and discard the tarragon sprig. Continue to cook, with smaller additions of stock (about 1/4 cups at a time) until the rice is tender but not mushy.

Working quickly, return the second pan to high heat, add the white wine and the reserved mussel, cover and cook for 4 minutes; check and continue to cook for another minute or so if the mussels have not opened. Remove from the heat.

Stir the cheese into the risotto, taste, correct for salt and season generously with black pepper. Divide among individual soup plates and top with the mussels. Sprinkle with Italian parsley and pine nuts and serve.

Serves 4

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Monday, January 25, 2010

Sweet Potato Bread

Ingredients:
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup mashed sweet potatoes
4 cups bread flour
1/4 teaspoon each ground nutmeg and cinnamon
2 T butter
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 T dry milk

Preparing the dough:
Add ingredients according to manufacturer's suggested order. Use white bread setting, light crust.

Makes a 2-pound loaf.

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Sunday, January 24, 2010

Baked Macaroni and Cheese

Ingredients:
1 pound dried, short pasta
generous pinch of salt
2 T butter
2 T all purpose flour
1 can (about 12 ounces) evaporated milk at room temperature
1 bay leaf
1/2 small onion, diced
2 1/2 cups grated cheese (or combination of cheeses - Select cheese that melts easily and evenly, like cheddar, jack, fontina, gorgonzola)
1 cup bread crumbs, mixed with 2 T melted butter

Variations: Add frozen peas, chopped leftover ham, roasted green chiles, chunks of cooked lobster, Worcestershire sauce, red pepper flakes, mustard, etc.

Another variation: Add 6 slices of bacon, cut into halves or thirds crosswise, to the water to boil the pasta and discard when the pasta is done.

Preparing the macaroni and cheese:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Bring a medium saucepan of water to a high, rolling boil.

In the meantime, liberally butter a ceramic or glass baking dish (8x8-inches is best). Lay out your ingredients: Dry pasta, butter, flour, evaporated milk, a bay leaf, diced onion, grated cheese(s) and buttery bread crumbs.

Set a second medium saucepan over a medium flame and melt the butter until just short of bubbling. Vigorously whisk in the flour and cook, whisking constantly, for 2-3 minutes, until it just begins to go faintly brown.

Quickly now, add the milk and stir. Next, add the bay leaf and diced onion. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring every minute or two. Bring just to the boiling point, but do not let it bubble. Reduce heat if necessary.

Meanwhile, your pasta water is boiling. Add the pasta and cook for about 9 minutes, until just short of done. The pasta will finish softening in the oven. Drain; do not rinse.

While your pasta drains, drop the heat under your bechamel to medium-low and stir in about three-quarters of the cheese and stir until melted. If you are using more than one kind of cheese, stir until the sauce is a uniform color and texture.

Off goes the heat, out comes the bay leaf and in goes the pasta. Stir thoroughly until completely coated. If you're adding anything to your dish, stir it in. Scoop the mixture into your well-buttered baking dish. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top, then the butter-soaked bread crumbs. Place into the oven without delay. Bake 25 minutes.

Check on it in the oven to assess whether the top layer is sufficiently browned. If it is, take the baking dish out of the oven. If it is not, broil for 3-5 minutes until crispy brown spots begin to appear on the surface of your dish.

Serves 4 to 6

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Crockpot Duck Confit

Ingredients:
2 teaspoons juniper berries
1 T bay leaf, crushed
2 T salt
2 T thyme
2 teaspoons black pepper, ground
2 T Herbs de Provence
2 T oregano
12 duck legs

Preparing the confit:
Combine herbs and salt and grind together. Toss the legs with the salt rub. Place in a baking dish. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.

Rinse the legs to remove the excess salt and pat dry. Place legs in a slow cooker, packed tightly. Pour in 1/4 cup of water and turn on to low setting. Cover and let cook on low for 8 hours. By the time it is done, the legs will be simmering, covered in the rendered duck fat.

Turn off the slow cooker and gently remove each leg with a slotted spoon, being careful not to break the skin. Place all legs in a glass baking dish in one layer, then pour the rendered fat over the legs. Allow to cool and then refrigerate until you are ready to use.

To use the confit, remove one leg at a time and carefully wipe off as much of the fat as you can. Place on a baking sheet and bake in a 375 degree oven to render off the rest of the fat and to crisp the skin. This will take 20 to 30 minutes.

If you just want to eat the meat (and not the skin), render it in the oven for just 10 minutes and then remove the skin and bones.

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