Thursday, August 5, 2010

Sweet Corn Gelato

TIPS FOR MAKING GELATO:

  • Use whole milk - Cream tends to coat the tongue, which can dull the taste buds to the flavor of other ingredients. Whole milk allows the taste buds to appreciate cleaner and more vibrant flavors.
  • Use overly ripe fruit - Overly ripe fruit (bruised peaches, soft and shriveling cherries, etc.) provides intense fruit flavor in gelatos.
  • Under-churn the base - Gelato is more dense, with less air whipped into it than ice cream. Stop the ice cream machine when the mix looks like a thick custard and then freeze.

This gelato is best served the day it is made.


Lynn Rossetto Kasper discusses gelato with Mario Batali on The Splendid Table

Ingredients:
3 ears sweet corn, preferably white, husked
3 1/2 cups milk, plus more if needed
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cups sugar
8 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon salt

Preparing the gelato:
Slice the kernels off the corncobs, reserving the cobs. Break each cob into 2 or 3 pieces.

Bring the milk to a simmer in a large saucepan. Add the corn kernels and cobs, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 45 minutes.

Remove the corncobs from the milk and discard. Use an immersion blender to buzz the milk and corn to break up the kernels; or transfer the milk and corn to a regular blender, in batches, and blend to break up the kernels. Strain through a coarse strainer into a bowl (discard the remaining corn mush). Measure the milk and add more if necessary to make 3 1/2 cups.

Combine the milk, cream, and 1 1/4 cups of the sugar in a large heavy-bottomed sauce- pan and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in 1 cup of the hot milk mixture, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving.

Makes 5 cups

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Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Steamed Asparagus In A Paper Bag

Ingredients for asparagus:
1 pound medium asparagus, tough ends trimmed
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and cracked black pepper
1/2 lemon, sliced paper thin
1 bay leaf

Preparing the asparagus:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and arrange an oven rack in the middle of the oven. Get yourself a paper bag large enough to hold the asparagus comfortably. Throw the asparagus in there and drizzle the outside of the bag with olive oil to keep the bag from burning. Sprinkle the asparagus with the salt and cracked pepper and toss in the lemon slices and bay leaf. Close the bag, folding it over several times and creasing the folds well to hold the steam in. Put the pan on a baking sheet, drizzle it with more olive oil, stick it in the oven, and bake for 20 minutes.

Take the baking sheet out of the oven and set it on top of the stove. Set a serving plate next to the stove. Using a kitchen towel or a pair of kitchen tongs, raise the bag over the plate, open the bag, and slide the asparagus out onto the plate. Drizzle with a little more olive oil and serve hot.

Serves 4

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Lemon-Zested Mashed Potatoes

Ingredients for potatoes:
6 medium Yukon gold potatoes
2 to 3 cups heavy whipping cream
2 to 3 cups whole milk
kosher salt
2 lemons, zested
freshly ground black pepper

Preparing the potatoes:
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan with the cream and milk. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then add 1 teaspoon of salt. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are very tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Remove about 2 cups of the liquid and reserve. Add the lemon zest and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Use a potato masher to break up the potatoes while adding about 1 cup of the reserved liquid, to just 'wet' the potatoes. Add more, for desired creaminess. Spoon the potatoes into a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Serves 4

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Sole Almondine

Serve this with lemon-zested mashed potatoes and parmesan-roasted vegetables.

Ingredients for the fish:
2 cups blanched slivered almonds
kosher salt
extra virgin olive oil
4 T unsalted butter
2 cups all purpose flour
freshly ground black pepper
4 eggs
1 cup milk
4 cleaned sole filets (6 ounces each)

Ingredients for the sauce:
1 large or 2 small shallots, finely chopped
1 cup white wine
1 lemon, juiced
1/4 chopped flat leaf parsley
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparing the fish:
Set a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat. Add the almonds and toast until golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and set aside.

Return the pan to medium heat (if you have 2 pans you can work simultaneously at this point, i.e. 2 filets per pan) and add a 2-count of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter to each pan.

Put the flour in a shallow dish and season with salt and pepper, to taste. In another shallow dish, whisk together the eggs and milk and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Dredge the filets in the seasoned flour, then dip them into the egg mixture. Allow some of the excess egg to drain off, then add them to the hot pan. Cook 2 pieces at a time. Fry for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, then carefully turn the fish over to cook the other side. With a spoon, baste the filets with the butter sauce. Repeat basting to ensure the fish remains moist. Once the other side is cooked (about 30 seconds) carefully remove the filets from the pan to a serving platter. Repeat with remaining 2 filets and a 2-count of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter. Once the filets have been removed the pan, add the chopped shallots and gently saute over low heat until translucent, about 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and finish with the lemon juice. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the parsley and season, to taste, with salt and pepper. To serve, spoon the sauce over the top of the filets and sprinkle generously with the toasted almonds.

Serves 4

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Parmesan-Roasted Green Beans

This recipe can be done with asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, or any other vegetable you can think of.

Ingredients:
1 pound thin green beans (haricots verts)
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano

Preparing the green beans:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Trim off the tough end of the beans, blanche in boiling salted water for 30 seconds to one minute (beans should still be al dente). Drain, dry beans on paper towels, and arrange them on a non-stick cookie sheet. Drizzle with olive oil season with salt and pepper, to taste. Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top and bake until the cheese melts and forms a crisp shell over the beans, about 10 minutes. Let the beans sit a few minutes for the cheese to cool slightly. Lift the beans out onto a platter and serve.

Serves 4

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Chocolate Buttercream

Ingredients:
2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
12 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled
3 T milk
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
5 cups confectioners' sugar

Preparing the buttercream:
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. With mixer on low speed, add chocolate until just combined. Add milk, vanilla, and sugar; mix on medium until well combined, being careful not to overmix.

Makes enough for about 30 cupcakes.

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Vanilla Buttercream

Ingredients:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
6 to 8 cups confectioners' sugar
1/2 cup milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preparing the buttercream:
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter until smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. With mixer on low speed, add 6 cups sugar, milk, and vanilla; mix until light and fluffy. If necessary, gradually add remaining 2 cups sugar to reach desired consistency.

Makes enough for 30 cupcakes.

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Billy's Vanilla Cupcakes

Ingredients:
1 3/4 cups cake flour, not self-rising
1 1/4 cups unbleached all purpose flour
2 cups sugar
1 T baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

vanilla or chocolate buttercream

Preparing the cupcakes:
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line cupcake pans with paper liners; set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine flours, sugar, baking powder, and salt; mix on low speed until combined. Add butter, mixing until just coated with flour.

In a large glass measuring cup, whisk together eggs, milk, and vanilla. With mixer on medium speed, add wet ingredients in 3 parts, scraping down sides of bowl before each addition; beat until ingredients are incorporated but do not overbeat.

Divide batter evenly among liners, filling about 2/3 full. Bake, rotating pan halfway through, until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 17 to 20 minutes.

Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Repeat process with remaining batter. Once cupcakes have cooled, use a small offset spatula to frost tops of each cupcake. Decorate with sprinkles, if desired.

Serve at room temperature.

Makes about 30 cupcakes

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Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Cheddar Cheese Buns

Use these buns for thin-sliced ham sandwiches.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups milk
1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon sugar
4 T (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1 T salt
5 teaspoons (2 packages) active dry yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm (105 degree F) water
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese
6 cups all purpose flour, approximately
3 T unsalted melted butter, approximately
1 yellow onion, finely chopped

Preparing the bread:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the milk until small bubbles appear along the edges of the pan. Remove from the heat. Add the 1/3 cup sugar, the 4 tablespoons of butter and the salt; stir to dissolve the sugar. Let cool to lukewarm, about 105 degrees F.

In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the lukewarm water, stir in the 1 teaspoon sugar and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Transfer the yeast mixture to a large bowl and add the lukewarm milk mixture, the egg and cheese. Using a wooden spoon, beat until smooth. Add 3 cups of the flour and beat until well mixed. Continue adding the flour, about 1/2 cup at a time and beating well after each addition, until the dough is smooth and comes away from the sides of the bowl, 10 to 12 minutes. (The dough can also be made with a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook; it will take 6 to 8 minutes.)

Turn the dough out onto a floured board, cover with the bowl and let rest for 5 minutes. Then knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and holds the imprint of a finger when poked, 7 to 9 minutes. Shape into a ball. Butter a clean bowl, place the dough in it and turn to coat. Cover with a damp kitchen towel, set in a warm area away from drafts and let the dough rise until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Grease 3 baking sheets with solid vegetable shortening or nonstick cooking spray. Using your hands, pinch off a tennis-ball-size piece of dough, shape into a ball and place on the prepared sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, spacing the buns about 2 inches apart. Flatten each bun with your fingers, brush the tops with the melted butter, and sprinkle about 1 teaspoon onion over each. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and let rise a second time until doubled in volume, 30 to 40 minutes.

Preheat an oven to 375 degrees F.

Bake until the tops of the buns are browned and the bottoms sound hollow when tapped, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve warm.

Makes about 30 buns.

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Monday, August 2, 2010

Cassoulet In A Slow Cooker

Use precooked Spanish-style chorizo sausage links, not fresh Mexican-style chorizo. Spanish chorizo is available in a variety of textures; purchase a softer-style sausage, rather than a dry one, for this dish; dry sausages are best suited for slicing and eating on their own, as a tapa.
Ingredients:
4 lb. boneless pork shoulder, cut into 8 pieces and trimmed of excess fat
kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 T canola oil
1 cup panko
4 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch strips
4 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions (about 3 medium onions)
2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 can (35 ounces) peeled Italian plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
2 cups chicken broth
12 cups cooked Great Northern beans or other small white beans, drained
6 fully cooked or smoked chorizo or garlic sausage links, about 1 1/2 lb. total, each halved on the diagonal
1 garlic head, halved crosswise
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
1 lb. baguette, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices
extra virgin olive oil for brushing
coarse sea salt, such as sel gris, for garnish

Preparing the cassoulet:
Season the pork generously with kosher salt and pepper; set aside.

In the stovetop-safe insert of a slow cooker over medium-high heat, combine the canola oil and panko. Cook, stirring constantly, until the panko is toasted and golden, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer the panko to a baking sheet and season with kosher salt and pepper.

Add the bacon to the insert and cook until crisp on both sides, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Reserve the bacon fat in the insert.

Add half of the pork to the insert and brown on all sides, 7 to 8 minutes total. Transfer to a platter. Repeat with the remaining pork.

Add the onions and 1 teaspoon kosher salt to the insert and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and softened, about 7 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, tomatoes and broth. Remove the insert from the heat and add the beans, pork, chorizo and garlic.

Place the insert on the slow cooker base, cover and cook on low until the pork pulls apart easily with a fork, 9 to 10 hours. Skim off the fat, and remove and discard the garlic. Fold in the panko and the 1/4 cup parsley. Adjust the seasonings with kosher salt and pepper.

Position a rack in the lower third of an oven and preheat the broiler.

Brush the baguette slices with olive oil. Arrange the slices, oiled side up, on top of the cassoulet, overlapping them. Broil until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes.

Let the cassoulet stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving. Sprinkle each serving with the reserved bacon, sea salt and parsley.

Serves 8 to 10.

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