Vegetable Stock

2 lbs. onions, halved
1 T olive oil
1 lb. carrots, peeled and thickly sliced
1 lb. potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1/2 lb. turnips, peeled and quartered
1/2 lb. mushrooms
2 celery ribs with leaves
4 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves, imported
1 sprig of fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried leaves
2 whole cloves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, coarsely cracked
1 leek (white and all the green), split lengthwise and well-rinsed, then halved crosswise
1 parsnip, peeled and quartered
1 bunch of scallion greens (tops from about 6 scallions)
4 large sprigs of Italian flat parsley

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

In a shallow roasting pan, toss the onions with the oil to coat. Bake, stirring once or twice, 45 minutes, or until nicely browned.

Transfer the onions to a stockpot. Pour 2 cups of water into the roasting pan and brig to a boil on top of the stove, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour the water into the stockpot.

Add all the remaining ingredients and 8 quarts of cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, 2 hours. Strain and measure the liquid. If there is more than 6 quarts, boil to reduce. Let cool, then ladle into tightly covered containers and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 3 months.

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Beef Stock

3 to 3 1/2 lbs. beef shank, center-cut
3 medium onions, quartered
2 bay leaves, imported
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

Optional: 3-4 unpeeled smashed garlic cloves, two unpeeled and quartered carrots, a chopped tomato, mushroom stems

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Place the beef shank and onions in a shallow roasting pan and roast, turning once, 45-55 minutes, or until the meat and onions are nicely browned. Transfer to a large stockpot.

Pour off any fat from the roasting pan. Pour 2 cups of water into the pan, set over moderately high heat, and bring to a boil, scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour into the stockpot.

Add 4 1/2 to 5 more quarts of water to the stockpot and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Add the bay leaves and thyme, reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer, partially covered, 3 1/2 to 4 hours.

Strain the stock. If there is more than 3 1/2 to 4 quarts, boil to reduce. Skim the fat off the top. If you have time, it's easier to let it cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight; the next day, scrape the congealed fat off the top.

Store in a tightly closed container. This stock will keep well for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 6 months in the freezer. To make usage simple, divide it into 2- and 4-cup container so that you can defrost just what you need to use for one dish.

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Rich Chicken Stock

7 lbs. chicken backs, necks, wings, gizzards, etc., but NO LIVERS
1 whole chicken breast with the bones
4 medium onions, cut in half
2 whole cloves
4 medium carrots, peeled and quartered
3 celery ribs with leaves, quartered
3 garlic cloves, smashed
10 parsley stems
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons black peppercorns

Optional: 1/2 cup mushroom trimmings and green leeks tops

Rinse all the chicken well under cold running water. Place in a very large stockpot and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, frequently skimming the foam as it rises to the top.

Add all the remaining ingredients and enough additional cold water to reach 1 inch from the top of the pot. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer 3-5 hours, skimming occasionally. Add water as necessary to keep everything covered.

Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve into a large bowl. If you have time, let cool and refrigerate overnight; then lift off the congealed fat and discard. If not, skim the fat from the top.

Return the stock to a large pot amd boil until reduced to 6 quarts. If not using within 2 days, freeze up to 6 months in tightly covered containers.

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Sarah's Brown Chicken Stock

7 pounds meat and bones (backs, necks, wings are best) of chicken, chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces
2 teaspoons salt
2 carrots, scraped
2 onions, peeled
2 celery stalks
2 leeks, washed

Bouquet garni:
Into a cheesecloth tie:
4 stems thyme
1 bay leaf
6 parsley sprigs
2 unpeeled garlic cloves
5 peppercorns

Brown meat, bones and vegetables either in batches in a heated stockpot, oil added. Or place all meat, bones and vegetables on baking sheet and brown in oven and then add to stockpot. When browned, add cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring to a simmer at medium heat.

As the liquid starts to simmer, scum will rise. Remove it with a ladle for about 20 minutes until it stops to accumulate.

Add the bouquet garni and add more water if necessary -- water should cover all ingredients by 1 inch. When liquid is simmering again, skim as necessary. Keep at a simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Skim fat and scum occasionally. Boiling water should be added if the liquid evaporates below the level of all ingredients. Never allow the liquid to boil to avoid fat and scum incorporating themselves into the liquid and making it cloudy.

Cooking may be stopped at any time and continued later. Never cover the pot totally before contents have completely cooled -- otherwise the stock will turn sour. After 4 to 5 hours of cooking, strain the stock out of the stockpot into a bowl. Press on the vegetables, to squeeze out all the liquid. Discard the vegetables.

Let stock settle for 5 minutes. Remove fat from its surface with a ladle, then draw paper towels over the surface of the stock to blot up last traces of fat. Or put the stock into the refrigerator, uncovered, until fat on top has hardened and can be scraped off.

Taste the degreased stock for taste. Boil it down to evaporate some of its water content and to concentrate its strength. Chill in ice-bath. Cover and refrigerate it, or bottle and freeze it. Stock kept in the refrigerator must be brought to the boil every 3 or 4 days to keep it from spoiling.

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Brown Chicken Stock

2 1/2 lbs. chicken backs, necks, wings, gizzards (no livers)
1/2 to 3/4 pounds of chicken legs, thighs and/or breasts with the bones in
2 T duck or goose fat or olive oil
3 medium onions, halved
3/4 cup mushroom stems and trimmings
2 medium carrots, thickly sliced
3 garlic cloves, smashed
8 sprigs of parsley
1 bay leaf, imported
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
pinch of dried thyme leaves

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the fat or oil over moderately high heat. Add the chicken, onions and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 20 minutes.

Add 2 cups of water and bring to a boil, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the carrots and garlic and enough water to cover by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil, skimming off the foam as it rises to the top.

Add all the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to moderately low, and simmer 3-4 hours, adding more water as necessary to keep the liquid at about the same level.

Strain through a fine mesh sieve and either skim all the fat off the top, or let cool, refrigerate overnight, and lift off and discard the congealed fat. Return to a clean pot and boil until reduced to 3-3 1/2 quarts of rich stock.

Freeze for up to 6 months.

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Beef Stock

8 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs fresh thyme or 3/4 teaspoon dried
4 sprigs fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
2 dried bay leaves
1 T whole black peppercorns
1 lb. beef stew meat, cubed
5 lbs. veal bones, cut into small pieces
1 large onion, unpeeled and quartered
2 large carrots, cut into thirds
2 celery stalks, cut into thirds
2 cups dry red wine

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Tie the parsley, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and peppercorns in a piece of cheesecloth to make a bouquet garni. Set aside.

Arrange the beef stew meat, veal bones, onion, carrots, and celery in an even layer in a heavy roasting pan. Roast, turning every 20 minutes, until the vegetables and the bones are deep brown, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the meat, bones and vegetables to a large stockpot, and set aside. Pour off the fat from the roasting pan, and discard. Place the pan over high heat on the stove. Add the red wine, and stir, using a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits from the bottom of the pan; boil until the wine is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Pour the mixture into the stockpot.

Add 6 quarts cold water to the stockpot, or more if needed to cover bones. Do not use less water; cover and bring to a boil, then reduce to a very gentle simmer so that bubbles occasionally rise to the surface. Add the reserved bouquet garni. Skim the foam from the surface. Continue to simmer the stock over the lowest possible heat for 3 hours. A skin will form on the surface of the liquid; skim off with a slotted spoon. Repeat as needed. Add water if at any time the surface level drops below the bones.

Prepare an ice water bath. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, or a cheesecloth-lined strainer, into a large bowl. Discard the solids. Transfer the bowl to the ice-water bath, and let the stock cool to room temperature.

Transfer the stock to airtight containers. The stock may be labeled at this point and refrigerated for 3 days or frozen for up to 4 months. If using the stock for a recipe, refrigerator for at least 8 hours or overnight so the fat collects on the top and can be removed. If storing, leave the fat layer intact; it seals the stock.

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