Brown Chicken Stock

2 1/2 lbs. chicken backs, necks, wings, gizzards (no livers)
1/2 to 3/4 pounds of chicken legs, thighs and/or breasts with the bones in
2 T duck or goose fat or olive oil
3 medium onions, halved
3/4 cup mushroom stems and trimmings
2 medium carrots, thickly sliced
3 garlic cloves, smashed
8 sprigs of parsley
1 bay leaf, imported
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
pinch of dried thyme leaves

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the fat or oil over moderately high heat. Add the chicken, onions and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 20 minutes.

Add 2 cups of water and bring to a boil, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the carrots and garlic and enough water to cover by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil, skimming off the foam as it rises to the top.

Add all the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to moderately low, and simmer 3-4 hours, adding more water as necessary to keep the liquid at about the same level.

Strain through a fine mesh sieve and either skim all the fat off the top, or let cool, refrigerate overnight, and lift off and discard the congealed fat. Return to a clean pot and boil until reduced to 3-3 1/2 quarts of rich stock.

Freeze for up to 6 months.