Goat Cheese and Shallot Quiche

Ingredients for the crust:
2 cups all purpose flour, sifted
salt
8 ounces (2 sticks) cold butter, cubed
1/4 to 1/2 cup ice water

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Ingredients for the filling
3 large shallots, halved, skins on
1 T extra virgin olive oil
2 cups 2-percent milk
3 eggs, at room temperature
4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces (1/2 cup) goat cheese, crumbled
2 cups baby arugula
6 pieces thinly sliced prosciutto

Preparing the For the quiche pastry:
In a large bowl, put the flour, salt, and butter cubes. Using the tips of your fingers, mix the ingredients until it resembles coarse cornmeal. Add the ice water a little at a time until the dough just comes together. Remove the dough from the bowl and form into a disk. Cover the disk with plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator to chill for an hour.

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Preparing the quiche:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Lightly flour the work surface, roll-out the dough and put in a pan with a removable bottom. Allow the dough to hang over the edges. Trim the edges slightly, still leaving an overhang of dough. Poke or dock the bottom of the pastry with a fork.
Put the crust on a baking tray and cover the bottom of the pastry dough with aluminum foil. Fill the crust with dried beans or pastry weights and bake for approximately 15 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and beans, and then put the pastry back in the oven until the bottom is golden brown, approximately 10 minutes.
Remove the pastry crust from the oven. While the pastry is still hot, brush a thin layer of quiche egg mixture over the bottom to seal.

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Preparing the filling:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Put the shallots in a small saute pan skin-side up and coat with olive oil. Season the shallots with salt and roast for 30 minutes, until tender. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Peel the skins from the shallots and set the shallots aside. Put the milk in a pot over low heat until scalded, set aside.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs, thyme, salt, and pepper until incorporated. Slowly whisk the warm milk into the egg mixture.

Scatter the roasted shallots and goat cheese into the base of the pastry crust.
Pour the egg mixture into the prepared quiche pastry crust. Bake in the oven for approximately 20 to 30 minutes, until the custard has set. Remove the quiche from the oven and allow to cool. Slice the quiche into portions and put the arugula and prosciutto over the quiche.

Serves 4

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Madeleines

Ingredients:
1/2 cup unsalted butter
2 eggs
1/3 cup sugar
1 to 2 teaspoons honey
2/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
salt
1/2 orange, zested

Preparing the madeleines:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

To brown the butter, melt the butter over medium heat in a heavy saucepan, allowing to bubble and foam, stirring frequently. Once the foaming subsides, allow the butter to brown along the bottom and then remove the pan from the heat. Browning will take about 5 minutes total; do not burn.

In a medium bowl, mix the eggs, sugar, and honey with electric mixer until thick and pale. Add the browned butter and mix.

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt, and mix into liquid ingredients, along with zest, just until blended.

Fill the greased madeleine baking molds and bake until golden, 9 to 11 minutes.

Makes about 12 madeleines

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Duck-Fat French Fries

Ingredients:
2 cups warm water
1/2 cup raw sugar
2 russets, cut into 1/4-inch fries
3 cups duck fat
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
freshly cracked black pepper
sea salt

Preparing the french fries:
Add the raw sugar to the water and whisk. Soak the fries in the sugar water for 1 hour, or up to overnight. Strain and dry off in a salad spinner.

In a large pot, heat the duck fat to 325 degrees F. Blanch 1 cup of fries at a time until cooked but not crispy, about 5 minutes. Once all batches have been blanched, raise the temperature of the oil to 375 degrees F. Fry in batches again until golden and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with cayenne, black pepper and sea salt.

Serves 2

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Cassoulet

Ingredients:
3 T olive oil, divided
8 ounces loose or bulk hot Italian sausage
8 ounces slab bacon, cut into lardons
1 medium onion, diced
3 medium carrots, diced unpeeled
2 stalks celery, diced
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 medium zucchini, diced
1 (14 1/2 ounces) can diced tomatoes
1 T fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon torn fresh rosemary leaves 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or stock
3 cans (15 1/2 ounces) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed or 8 ounces dried cannellini beans, cooked
2 pieces duck confit leg and thigh
1 cup bread crumbs
3 T butter, melted
3 T chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparing the cassoulet:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-heat. Add the Italian sausage and bacon to brown on all sides breaking up with the back of a wooden spoon, about 10 minutes. Remove all but 2 tablespoons fat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and saute briefly, just until fragrant scraping up any browned bits. Add the zucchini, diced tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, chicken broth, and canned or cooked cannellini beans. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Add the duck confit. Remove the Dutch oven from the stovetop and place in a 350 degree F oven for 30 minutes remove and sprinkle the bread crumbs and place back in the oven for another 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Serves 4 to 6

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The Croissants on the SS France

Ingredients:
3 T flour
3 sticks butter (3/4 pound) of butter or margarine, equally divided and softened at room temperature
4 cups all purpose flour, approximately
2 teaspoon salt
2 T sugar
2 packages active dry yeast
1/4 cup warm water
1 1/2 cups milk, warmed to 80 degrees F to 90 degrees F
1/2 cup half-and-half, warmed
1 egg
1 T water

Preparing the dough:
Sprinkle 3 tablespoons flour over butter and blend together on the work surface. On a length of foil, fashion a 6-inch square of soft butter; fold over the sides of the foil to enclose. Place in the refrigerator to chill for 2 to 3 hours.

To mix the dough by hand, in a large mixing or mixer bowl, blend 2 cups of the flour with salt and sugar. Dissolve yeast in warm water and add it and the warmed milk and half-and-half to the flour mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon or the flat blade of an electric mixer to thoroughly blend the batterlike dough, about 2 minutes.

Stir in additional flour, 1/4 cup at a time, to make a soft but not sticky dough (it will stiffen when chilled.) Knead by hand or under a dough hook for 5 minutes to form a solid mass.

If using a food processor, attach the steel blade. Place 2 cups flour in the work bowl and add the dry ingredients. Pulse to mix. Pour the 1/4 cup water, milk, and half-and-half through the feed tube. Pulse once or twice to be certain that all dry ingredients are moistened. Add the balance of the flour, 1/2 cup at a time, turning the machine on briefly after each addition. When the mixture forms a mass and begins to clean the sides of the bowl, knead for 30 seconds. Don't overknead.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Proceed when both butter and dough are about the same temperature — 65 degrees F is ideal. The block of butter should bend but not break (too cold) nor be oily (too warm) when bent slightly. This may mean taking the butter out of the refrigerator an hour or so early to reach workable temperature. Likewise for the dough. Place the dough on a floured work surface and with the hands press it into a 10-inch square. Unwrap the block of butter and lay the block diagonally on the dough. Bring each point of dough into the center, overlapping the edges at least 1-inch. Press the dough into a neat package. With a heavy rolling pin, roll the dough into a rectangle, approximately 8-inches x 18-inches (this dimension is not critical).

Note: If the butter seems to be breaking into small pieces under the dough rather than remaining solid, allow the dough/butter to warm a few minutes. But if the butter softens, becomes sticky, and oozes while making the turns, put the dough back into the refrigerator for several minutes.

Fold the length of dough into thirds, as for a letter. Turn so that the open ends are at twelve and six o'clock. Roll again into a rectangle. This time, fold both ends into the middle and then close, as one would a book. The dough will now be in 4 layers. Wrap the package of dough in a cloth (an old tea towel is good) that has been soaked in cold water and wrung dry. Place the wrapped dough in the refrigerator to relax and chill for 1 or 2 hours.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and place on the floured work surface. Unwrap, roll out, and fold in thirds, as for a letter. This is the final turn before it is rolled out and cut into croissants. Dampen cloth again and wrap loosely around the dough. Place the package in a plastic bag so moisture will be retained (not pulled out of the cloth). Leave in the refrigerator 4 to 6 hours or overnight.

Mix together the egg and 1 tablespoon of water. Have ready the egg wash, a knife or pastry cutter, and a wooden yardstick if you wish the pieces to be cut precisely otherwise, plan to cut them freehand. You may have or can borrow a French croissant cutter that cuts the dough into triangles.

Sprinkle work surface with flour. Roll the dough until it is a generous 10-inch by 38-inch rectangle, and, most importantly, about 1/4-inch thick. This is a crucial dimension, since it determines the size and texture of the croissants. Trim irregularities to make the strip uniform in width. Cut the strip lengthwise to make two 5-inch pieces. Mark the strip into triangles, 5-inch wide on the bottom. Using a yardstick as a guide, cut through the dough with a pastry or pizza cutter or knife. Separate the triangles, place them on a baking sheet, and chill for 15 to 20 minutes. Roll the dough into the traditional croissant shape, by rolling the triangle from the bottom to the point.

Place the croissants on a baking sheet and allow to rise for 1 to 2 hours, in which they will double in volume.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Bake the croissants for 22 to 25 minutes. Allow them to cool on a rack before serving.

Makes 24 to 30 croissants

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Croissants

Make the dough at least 2 days before using.

Ingredients for the detrempe:
.75 ounce (1 packed T plus 1 1/2 packed teaspoons) compressed yeast or 2 3/4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 3/4 cups bread flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
1 1/4 cups pastry or unbleached cake flour, sifted
1 teaspoon fine sea salt

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Ingredients for the beurrage:
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into tablespoons
2 T bread flour

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Ingredients for almond filling:
4 ounces almond paste
2 T (1 ounce) sugar
8 T (1 stick; 4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg
finely grated zest of 1/2 a lemon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 T unbleached all purpose flour

Preparing the detrempe:
Finely crumble the yeast into the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Add the sugar and let stand until the yeast gives off some moisture, about 3 minutes. Whisk well to dissolve the yeast. Stir in the milk. (If using dry yeast, sprinkle the yeast over 1/4 cup warm, 105 degrees F to 115 degrees F, milk in a small bowl. Let stand until the yeast softens, about 5 minutes. Whisk well to dissolve. Pour into the mixer bowl, then add the sugar. Add the remaining 1 cup cold milk.)

Mix the bread and pastry flours together. Add 2 cups of the flour mixture and the salt to the bowl. Attach the bowl to the mixer and fit with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed, adding enough of the remaining flour mixture to make a soft, sticky dough. Do not overmix, as the dough will be worked and absorb more flour during the rolling and folding processes. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface, knead a few times to smooth the surface, and shape into a ball. The ball will hold its shape but spread slightly during standing.

Dust a half-sheet pan with flour. Place the dough on the flour and cut an X about 1-inch deep in the top of the ball to mark it into quadrants. Sprinkle with flour on top and refrigerate.

* * * * * * *

Preparing the beurrage:
Clean the mixer bowl and paddle attachment. Add the butter to the bowl and beat with the paddle attachment on medium speed until the butter is almost smooth, about 30 seconds. Add the flour and continue beating until the mixture is smooth, cool, and malleable, about 30 seconds more. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and press any remaining lumps of butter out with the heel of your hand, and shape the butter into a 4-inch square. Place the beurrage on the half-sheet pan with the detrempe and refrigerate together for about 15 minutes. The detrempe and the beurrage should be the same consistency and temperature after this slight chilling.

Flour the work surface again. Place the dough on the work surface with the ends of the X at approximately 2, 4, 7, and 10 o'clock positions. You will notice 4 quadrants of dough between the crosses of the X at the north, south, east, and west positions. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Using the heel of your hand, flatten and stretch each quadrant out about 2 1/2-inches to make a cloverleaf shape with an area in the center that is thicker than the "leaves". Use a tapered rolling pin to roll each "cloverleaf" into a flap about 6-inches long and 5-inches wide, leaving a raised square in the center. Using the side of the rolling pin, press the sides of the raised area to demark the square.

Place the butter square in the center of the cloverleaf. Gently stretch and pull the north-facing flap of dough down to cover the top and sides of the butter square, brushing away any excess flour. (This dough is very extendable and will stretch easily, but don't tear it.) Now stretch and pull the south-facing flap of dough up to cover the top and sides of the butter square. Turn the dough so the open ends of the square face north and south. Repeat folding and stretching the north- and south-facing flaps of dough (originally the east and west flaps) to completely cover the butter square, making a butter-filled packet of dough about 6-inches square.

Dust the work surface with flour. Turn the dough over so the 4 folded flaps face down with the open seam facing you. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Using a large, heavy rolling pin held at a slight angle, lightly pound the top of the dough to widen it slightly and help distribute the butter inside the dough. Roll the dough into a 17 by 9-inch rectangle. Fold the dough into thirds, like a business letter, brushing away excess flour. This is called a single turn. Roll the rectangle lightly to barely compress the layers. Transfer to a half-sheet pan and refrigerate for about 20 minutes.

Lightly flour the work surface. Place the dough on the work surface with the long open seam of dough facing you. Dust the dough with flour. Roll out the dough into a 17 by 9-inch rectangle. Fold the right side of the dough over 2 inches to the left. Fold the left side of the dough over to meet the right side. Fold the dough in half vertically from left to right. This is a double turn (also known as a book turn). Roll the rectangle lightly to barely compress the layers. Return to the half-sheet pan and refrigerate for another 20 minutes.

Repeat rolling and folding the dough into a final single turn. With the long seam facing you, cut the dough in half vertically. Wrap each piece of dough tightly in plastic wrap, then wrap again. Freeze for at least 24 hours or up to 4 days.
The night before using the dough, transfer the frozen dough to the refrigerator and let thaw overnight, about 8 hours. Once defrosted the dough will begin to rise, so make sure to roll it out immediately.

Makes about 2 pounds, 6 ounces dough

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Preparing the croissants:
Line 2 half-sheet pans with parchment paper. Dust the work surface well with flour. Place the dough on the work surface with the open seam of dough facing you. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Using a large, heavy rolling pin, roll out the dough into a 16 by 12-inch rectangle. Don't press the dough too hard; let the weight of the pin do much of the work. If you changed the position of the dough while rolling, it is important to keep track of which side contains the seam.

Turn the dough with the seam facing you. (If you've lost track, look carefully at the sides of the dough, and you should be able to discern it, even though it is faint.) Using a pizza wheel and a yardstick, neatly trim the rough edges. Cut the dough in half lengthwise to make two 16 by 6-inch rectangles. Fold each rectangle into thirds, place on a half-sheet pan, and refrigerate uncovered for about 15 minutes.

Remove the dough strips from the refrigerator. Work with one dough strip at a time. Using a pizza wheel, starting at the top left corner of one strip, cut down to make a half-triangle with a 2-inch base; set aside. Measure 3 1/2-inches from the top left corner of the strip and mark a notch with the wheel at this point. Cut down diagonally from the notch to meet the bottom left edge of the dough strip to make another triangle with a 3 1/2-inch base. Continue cutting, alternating diagonal cuts, to cut out 6 triangles. The last cut will also yield a half-triangle with a 2-inch-wide base. Repeat with the second strip of dough to make 6 more large triangles and 2 half-triangles. You should have a total of 12 large triangles and 4 half-triangles.

Place a single "complete" triangle on the work surface with the base of the triangle facing you. Stretch the bottom slightly so it is about 5-inches wide. Pick up the triangle. With one hand, hold the dough triangle at the bottom and stretch it with your other hand until it is about 7-inches long. Return the triangle to the work surface.

If making almond croissants, place a tablespoon of almond filling 1/2-inch from the bottom of the triangle. Use your finger or the spoon to gently smear the filling in a small triangle, keeping it centered on the dough and away from the edges.

Starting at the bottom, roll up the triangle, and finish with the tip underneath the croissant on the pan. Curve the croissant by bringing the 2 ends together and then cross one end over the other, and press together. Repeat rolling the remaining dough triangles, placing them 1 1/2-inches apart on the pan. Overlap 2 of the half-triangles at their long sides, and press the seam together. Roll up as described for the large triangles and add to the pan. Repeat with the remaining half-triangles.

If making almond croissants, brush with egg wash and proof.

Choose a warm place in the kitchen for proofing. Slip each pan into a tall "kitchen-sized" plastic bag. Place a tall glass of very hot water near the center of each pan. Wave the opening of each bag to trap air and inflate it like a balloon to create "head room," being sure that the plastic does not touch the delicate dough. Twist each bag closed. Let stand until the croissants look puffy but not doubled, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, position racks in the center and top third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Remove the glasses from the bags, then the pans. Lightly brush the croissants with the beaten egg.

If making almond croissants, brush with egg wash for the second time, sprinkle the sliced almonds over the top of each croissant, and proof for a second time.

Bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees F and continue baking until the croissants are crisp and golden brown, about 15 minutes longer. Serve warm or cool to room temperature.

If making almond croissants, when cooled, sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Makes 24 croissants

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Preparing almond filling:
Break or cut the almond paste into 10 to 12 pieces and put them in the bowl of a food processor. Add the sugar and process until the almond paste is cut into tiny pieces, 20 to 30 seconds. Add the butter and process until well blended, another 20 to 30 seconds. Scrape down the bowl.

Add the egg, lemon zest, and vanilla extract and process for about 10 seconds. Add the flour and process for 10 seconds. Scrape down the bowl and make sure everything is evenly mixed. Transfer to an airtight container until needed.

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Poached Eggs & Asparagus Over Arugula

Ingredients:
1 bunch asparagus
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt
4 slices rustic Italian bread
1 clove garlic
3 T white vinegar
4 large eggs
2 cups baby arugula
1 to 2 T lemon juice
1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 lemon, zested

Preparing the asparagus:
Preheat grill or grill pan.

Toss the asparagus with oil and salt, to taste. Grill the asparagus until slightly charred and pliable on all sides. Remove to a platter and reserve at room temperature.

* * * * * *

Preparing the bruschetta:
Grill each slice of bread until crispy and slightly charred on both sides. Rub each piece of bread vigorously with the raw garlic clove. Reserve with the asparagus.

* * * * * *

Preparing the poached eggs:
Fill a bowl with cold tap water and 4 to 5 ice cubes.

Fill a medium saucepan 2/3 of the way with water. Add the white vinegar and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat on the burner until the bubbles in the water have subsided. Crack and drop each egg into the water. Cook the eggs for 3 to 4 minutes. When done the whites will be cooked through and the yolks will be warm but still liquid. Using a slotted spoon remove the eggs from the saucepan and place in the bowl of cold water. Set aside.
* * * * * *

Assembling the salad:
Toss the arugula with half of the lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Gently toss the salad until coated with the lemon and olive oil. Add more lemon juice and oil if needed.

Divide the arugula between 4 individual plates. Arrange the asparagus on top of the arugula on each plate.

While dressing the salad bring the saucepan of poaching water to a simmer. Gently return the eggs to the saucepan until heated through, about 1 to 2 minutes. When the eggs are hot, remove them from the pan with a slotted spoon and gently blot on a tea towel or a piece of bread to remove any excess water. Place 1 egg on top of the asparagus on each plate. Sprinkle each with salt, Parmigiano and lemon zest.

Drizzle each piece of grilled bread generously with olive oil and cut in half, and place next to the egg.

Serves 4

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Laura's Vinegar Chicken

Ingredients
3 1/2 pounds mixed chicken drumsticks and thighs
salt and pepper
3 T unsalted butter
1 head garlic, broken into unpeeled cloves
1 cup red wine vinegar
1 pound tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 T tomato paste
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
1 cup chicken stock
chopped fresh parsley leaves, as needed

Preparing the chicken:
Tie the thyme, parsley, and bay leaf with kitchen twine and set aside.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet until foaming, then, a few pieces at a time, brown the chicken well on all sides, until the skin crisp and has color (about 5 minutes per side). Remove the chicken to a plate.

Add the garlic to the pan and cook about 10 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the vinegar and boil to reduce by half, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste. Return the chicken to the pan. Add the herb bundle to the chicken and simmer, uncovered, until the meat falls from the bone, about 30 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a dish, cover, and keep warm.

Pour the stock into the pan juices and boil until thickened, about 10 minutes. Strain into a saucepan, and if it's still not concentrated enough for your liking, boil it down a little more. Whisk in the remaining tablespoon of butter. Season, and pour over the chicken. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the top.

Serves 4

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Cassoulet

Ingredients: 1 pound dry white beans 6 sprigs parsley 4 sprigs fresh thyme 4 cloves garlic 3 whole cloves 1 bay leaf 4 ounces thick bacon, cut into small chunks 4 Italian-style sweet sausages, cut into chunks, or smoky sausage like kielbasa 2 to 3 pounds meat: pork, veal, beef, duck or chicken salt and pepper to taste 1 large onion, cut into small chunks 2 tomatoes, chopped 6 T tomato paste 2 cups beef or chicken stock 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 1 1/2 cups fresh bread crumbs 2 T butter cut, into bits Prepare: Cook the beans as in the original recipe, but after the soaking, place the parsley, thyme, garlic, cloves and bay leaf in a small muslin or cheesecloth bag, and include it when you cook the beans. When the beans are cooked, remove the herbs, and drain the beans but reserve the cooking water. Set the beans and cooking water aside. In a large saute pan, cook the bacon over moderate heat for 5 to 6 minutes, or until lightly browned and crispy. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the sausage chunks to the pan and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, or until the outside is lightly browned. Remove meat and set aside with bacon. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper. You may use a mixture of meats. Add meat in small amounts to the saute pan, browning the pieces, then removing them to a dish, until all the meat has been cooked. Note: if you use a duck breast, you may roast it whole, then cut it into chunks. Add the onion to the pan and cook for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and the meats, but not the bacon or sausage, to the pan. Add the tomato paste, stock, wine and some salt and pepper. Stir ingredients, cover the pan and simmer for 45 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the sausage and bacon. Place a layer of beans in a large, deep casserole. Spoon some of the meat mixture on top and continue layering until all the beans and meat have been used. Be sure there is enough liquid in the casserole to cover the beans, using the reserved bean cooking liquid, if necessary. Spoon the bread crumbs on top of the meat and bean mixture. Top with the butter bits. Bake at 375 degrees F for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees F. Bake about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, breaking crust and mixing it with mixture below during first 45 minutes. If mixture below crust seems dry, add stock or bean cooking liquid 1/2 cup at a time when you break the crust. The cassoulet is done when the crust is golden brown. Serves 6

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