Friday, December 5, 2008

Beef Stock

3 to 3 1/2 lbs. beef shank, center-cut
3 medium onions, quartered
2 bay leaves, imported
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

Optional: 3-4 unpeeled smashed garlic cloves, two unpeeled and quartered carrots, a chopped tomato, mushroom stems

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.

Place the beef shank and onions in a shallow roasting pan and roast, turning once, 45-55 minutes, or until the meat and onions are nicely browned. Transfer to a large stockpot.

Pour off any fat from the roasting pan. Pour 2 cups of water into the pan, set over moderately high heat, and bring to a boil, scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour into the stockpot.

Add 4 1/2 to 5 more quarts of water to the stockpot and bring to a boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the top. Add the bay leaves and thyme, reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer, partially covered, 3 1/2 to 4 hours.

Strain the stock. If there is more than 3 1/2 to 4 quarts, boil to reduce. Skim the fat off the top. If you have time, it's easier to let it cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight; the next day, scrape the congealed fat off the top.

Store in a tightly closed container. This stock will keep well for up to 3 days in the refrigerator or up to 6 months in the freezer. To make usage simple, divide it into 2- and 4-cup container so that you can defrost just what you need to use for one dish.

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Rich Chicken Stock

7 lbs. chicken backs, necks, wings, gizzards, etc., but NO LIVERS
1 whole chicken breast with the bones
4 medium onions, cut in half
2 whole cloves
4 medium carrots, peeled and quartered
3 celery ribs with leaves, quartered
3 garlic cloves, smashed
10 parsley stems
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons black peppercorns

Optional: 1/2 cup mushroom trimmings and green leeks tops

Rinse all the chicken well under cold running water. Place in a very large stockpot and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, frequently skimming the foam as it rises to the top.

Add all the remaining ingredients and enough additional cold water to reach 1 inch from the top of the pot. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer 3-5 hours, skimming occasionally. Add water as necessary to keep everything covered.

Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve into a large bowl. If you have time, let cool and refrigerate overnight; then lift off the congealed fat and discard. If not, skim the fat from the top.

Return the stock to a large pot amd boil until reduced to 6 quarts. If not using within 2 days, freeze up to 6 months in tightly covered containers.

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Sarah's Brown Chicken Stock

7 pounds meat and bones (backs, necks, wings are best) of chicken, chopped into 2- to 3-inch pieces
2 teaspoons salt
2 carrots, scraped
2 onions, peeled
2 celery stalks
2 leeks, washed

Bouquet garni:
Into a cheesecloth tie:
4 stems thyme
1 bay leaf
6 parsley sprigs
2 unpeeled garlic cloves
5 peppercorns

Brown meat, bones and vegetables either in batches in a heated stockpot, oil added. Or place all meat, bones and vegetables on baking sheet and brown in oven and then add to stockpot. When browned, add cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring to a simmer at medium heat.

As the liquid starts to simmer, scum will rise. Remove it with a ladle for about 20 minutes until it stops to accumulate.

Add the bouquet garni and add more water if necessary -- water should cover all ingredients by 1 inch. When liquid is simmering again, skim as necessary. Keep at a simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Skim fat and scum occasionally. Boiling water should be added if the liquid evaporates below the level of all ingredients. Never allow the liquid to boil to avoid fat and scum incorporating themselves into the liquid and making it cloudy.

Cooking may be stopped at any time and continued later. Never cover the pot totally before contents have completely cooled -- otherwise the stock will turn sour. After 4 to 5 hours of cooking, strain the stock out of the stockpot into a bowl. Press on the vegetables, to squeeze out all the liquid. Discard the vegetables.

Let stock settle for 5 minutes. Remove fat from its surface with a ladle, then draw paper towels over the surface of the stock to blot up last traces of fat. Or put the stock into the refrigerator, uncovered, until fat on top has hardened and can be scraped off.

Taste the degreased stock for taste. Boil it down to evaporate some of its water content and to concentrate its strength. Chill in ice-bath. Cover and refrigerate it, or bottle and freeze it. Stock kept in the refrigerator must be brought to the boil every 3 or 4 days to keep it from spoiling.

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Brown Chicken Stock

2 1/2 lbs. chicken backs, necks, wings, gizzards (no livers)
1/2 to 3/4 pounds of chicken legs, thighs and/or breasts with the bones in
2 T duck or goose fat or olive oil
3 medium onions, halved
3/4 cup mushroom stems and trimmings
2 medium carrots, thickly sliced
3 garlic cloves, smashed
8 sprigs of parsley
1 bay leaf, imported
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
pinch of dried thyme leaves

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the fat or oil over moderately high heat. Add the chicken, onions and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 20 minutes.

Add 2 cups of water and bring to a boil, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the carrots and garlic and enough water to cover by at least 1 inch. Bring to a boil, skimming off the foam as it rises to the top.

Add all the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to moderately low, and simmer 3-4 hours, adding more water as necessary to keep the liquid at about the same level.

Strain through a fine mesh sieve and either skim all the fat off the top, or let cool, refrigerate overnight, and lift off and discard the congealed fat. Return to a clean pot and boil until reduced to 3-3 1/2 quarts of rich stock.

Freeze for up to 6 months.

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Thursday, December 4, 2008

Roasted Butternut Squash

1½ to 2 pounds butternut squash
1 yellow onion
1 bulb of garlic, cloves separated but left in peels.
thyme, fresh sprigs
extra-virgin olive oil
3 to 4 T good quality balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Line a cookie sheet with foil.

Peel, seed and cut the squash into 1-inch cubes.

Peel and rough chop the onion (or thin quarter slice) the onion.

Place all vegetables in bowl with 3-4 sprigs of thyme, drizzle olive oil liberally over the mixture and mix to coat well.

Spread out in an even layer on the baking sheet.

Drizzle balsamic vinegar over everything, sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Roast for 45-60 minutes, or until easily pierced with knife and lightly browned.

Serve hot or at room temperature, with fresh, artisanal balsamic vinegar sprinkled at the last minute.

Alternative Preparation:
Cut the squash lengthwise in half.

Seed and cut it into 3- to 4-inch squares, with skin intact.

Score the flesh with crosshatch cuts about ½ inch deep.

Rub all over with olive oil.

Set the pieces, skin side down, on the cookie sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Bake 45 minutes, or until easily pierced with knife and lightly browned.

Serve hot or at room temperature, sprinkled with balsamic vinegar.

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Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Quiche Crepes

8 ounces cream cheese
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 egg
1 egg yolk
freshly ground black pepper
2 T chopped chives
4 T grated sharp cheddar cheese (Herkimer County)
6 strips of cooked and crumbled bacon

18 5-inch crepes

Let cream cheese stand at room temperature for an hour before starting. Then cream in gradually the cream, then the whole egg and the egg yolk until the mixture is smoth and thick. Add black pepper, chives and grated cheese, mixing well.

Have read 3 muffin tins each with 6 muffin cups (2 1/2 inches in diameter). Do not grease. Place a crepe over one opening; then put a few bits of cooked bacon and a large spoonful of the cheese mixture in the center and push down carefully with the bowl of a spoon. Repeat with the rest of the crepes. The crepes will make a pastrylike shell around the edge of the filling. Bake for 30 minutes in a 375 degree F oven. These may be half-baked, frozen and re-baked after defrosting.

Optional: You can add 4 ounces of crab meat or lobster to the filling

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Basic Crepes

1 1/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2 T butter or oil, melted and cooled
butter for cooking

Sift flour, sugar and salt together in a bowl. Add eggs and mix together thoroughly -- mixture will form a thick paste. Add milk gradually, beating thoroughly. Add melted and cooled butter. At this time add whatever flavoring you wish and, if possible, allow batter to stand for at least 1 hour.

Mixing Crepes in a Blender:
The liquids and eggs should go in first in a blender, including butter and seasonings, then the dry ingredients. Blend for 1 minute, then turn off motor and with a rubber spatula push down flour that has not been blended and blend again for a minute. If necessary, repeat until the mixture is well blended. Cover and set aside for 1 to 6 hours at room temperature; can be held overnight in the refrigerator.


Cooking the Crepes:
Heat a small crepe pan, 5 or 6 inches across the bottom. Brush butter or oil and when fat is hot but not smoking life pan off heat and pour in 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of batter, depending on the size of the pan. Swirl quickly to cover bottom of pan. Return pan to heat. When crepe is golden brown (about a minute) turn it and cook on reverse side for about half a minute. Continue cooking crepes, adding butter to pan as needed. Turn crepes out on a clean towel or paper towels.

If the batter is too thick, add a little liquid until the batter is the consistency of heavy cream.

If they are to be used immediately, stack on a plate and keep warm in a low oven. If they are to be held, stack with waxed paper between each after they have cooled and cover. If they are to be frozen, wrap stack in foil, freezer paper or freezer bags and freeze immediately.

Makes 28-32 5-inch crepes or 16-20 6-inch crepes.


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French Onion Soup

4 T unsalted butter
2 pounds yellow onions, sliced ¼-inch into half circles
1 teaspoon sugar
1 T all-purpose flour
½ cup dry sherry
3 cups homemade beef stock
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or ¾ teaspoon dried thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small French baguette, sliced crosswise into ½-inch pieces
8 ounces gruyere cheese, grated on the large holes of a box grater (about 3 cups)

Melt butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot on medium-low heat. Add onions. Spread them out in as thin a layer as possible. Sprinkle with sugar, and cook, stirring just as needed to keep onions from sticking, until they are melting and soft, golden brown, and beginning to caramelize, about 1 hour.

Sprinkle flour over onions, and stir to coat. Add sherry, stock, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, for about 30 minutes, to allow the flavors to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, lightly toast bread under a broiler; set aside. Ladle hot soup into six ovenproof bowls. Arrange the bowls on a baking pan. Place 1 or 2 slices of toasted bread over each bowl of soup. Sprinkle ½ cup grated cheese over bread in each bowl, and place under the broiler until cheese is melted and crusty brown around the edges. Watch carefully that bread doesn’t burn. Serve immediately.

Shorter caramelization of onions:
Place the onions, butter and salt into a heavy stockpot over medium heat as instructed in the original recipe, but place a lid on the pot and allow the onions to cook for about 30 minutes, stirring about ever 10 minutes, until the onions are very soft and have released a lot of liquid. Remove the lid and raise the heat to medium high. Add about 1 tbsp sugar (to initiate carmelization). Cook until almost all of the liquid has been reduced, then stir constantly until you see and smell caramelization beginning. Turn heat to low and stir constantly until onions are a nice deep brown caramel. Be very careful to not burn the onions, and keep some water nearby to arrest caramelization if necessary.

Serves 6

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Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Guacamole


2 avocados, very ripe
3 T fresh lime juice
2-3 T finely minced red onion
1 tomato, chopped
3-4 dashes Tabasco sauce, depending on taste
1 small jalapeno pepper, minced
fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
3/4 teaspoon salt
dollop of sour cream
scallions, including tops, finely minced
fresh cracked black pepper
sliced black olives
fresh tortilla chips (see below), crackers, raw vegetables

In a molcajete, grind the red onion, the jalapeno pepper, salt, into a thick, rough paste. Dice the avocados in their skins and scoop out into the molcajete, add the chopped cilantro, lime juice, Tabasco, and fold together. Spoon a dollop of sour cream over the top, the scallions, tomatoes, sliced olives on top of the sour cream, Cover and chill in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

To prevent discoloration, place the avocado seeds in the guacamole and cover with plastic wrap placed directly on the guacamole, squeezing out any air pockets. Refrigerate until serving.

Fresh Tortilla Chips:

corn (yellow and blue) and flour tortillas, cut into wedges
oil (peanut, canola, grape seed oil, any light oil that you can heat to high temperatures without smoking)
salt
ground cumin

Heat oil and when hot, add tortilla wedges, a small batch at a time (don't crowd) until lightly browned. Remove with a spider wand to paper towels, salt while hot and sprinkle with ground cumin.

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Monday, December 1, 2008

Chicken Breasts in Ginger Cream


1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
4 large chicken breasts, split, washed and dried
6 T butter
3 T flour
1 1/4 cups chicken broth
3/4 cup light cream
2 T finely minced crystallized ginger
parsley

Place 1/4 cup flour, ginger, salt and pepper in a paper bag. Shake the chicken breasts in the bag, a few pieces at a time, and shake off any excess flour.

In a 10-12-inch enameled skillet or casserole, heat the butter until frothy and brown the chicken breasts skin side down over moderate heat for about 10 minutes. Turn the chicken and brown for 10 more minutes. Cover the pan and simmer until done, about 20 minutes more. Remove the chicken to a heated platter and keep warm in the oven. Add 3 tablespoons flour to the juice in the skillet and stir over low heat about 5 minutes. Add the chicken broth and cream. Stir until smooth and thickened. Season with salt and pepper and additional ground ginger if necessary. Pour the sauce over the chicken breasts on the platter and garnish with crystallized ginger and parsley. Serve with chutney and curried rice.

Serves 8

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