About Firsts and Bests

The best couscous I've ever had was also the first couscous I'd ever had. It was over twenty-five years ago, on my first trip to London, at a little hole-in-the-wall on Holmes Road in NW London, Le Petit Prince. As it happens, it was also the best meal I'd had during a trip steeped in tasting everything that the Brits had to offer (cream tea at the Ritz, eels and pie and mash, fish and chips, pub grub, Malaysian and curry houses, the food stalls at Harrods) - It was that good.

Le Petit Prince was Moorish-by-way-of-Haight-Ashbury (on the ground floor of a brick townhouse) in decor and energy, and had (maybe) five tables. Stepping past the front door, a thick wall of tobacco smoke mugged us. So aggressive it was, our eyelids slammed shut, involuntarily and in defense, and refused to open for a good thirty seconds -- Not before enough tears had poured out of our tear ducts to cushion our eyes from the harsh haze did they open again. Once we could see again (through squinted eyes), the aromas coming off of the heaping, steaming platters of simple, but perfectly prepared and spiced food on the tables around us was intoxicating.

This couscous, Couscous With Seven Vegetables & Two Meats, comes close to Le Petit Prince's, which is high praise, indeed:

1 lb. skinned chicken thighs (optional)
1 lb. lamb (optional, use equal parts cubed lamb shoulder and meaty neck bones)
1 T olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips
1 T tomato paste
1½ T freshly ground cumin
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or red pepper flakes
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
3 carrots, peeled, cut in half crosswise then into quarters lengthwise (you should end up with 3″ lengths like carrot sticks)
2 zucchini, cut like the carrots
4 large potatoes, skinned, cut into eighths (preferably yukon gold)
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped
3 sprigs parsley
2-3 cups cooked garbanzo beans (canned or jarred is fine)
2 cups uncooked couscous grains
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup cilantro, chopped

harissa

Heat oil in heavy large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; sauté 2-3 minutes on medium heat, until onion is soft and translucent. Add peppers. Cook for 2-3 minutes more, making sure that the onions and garlic do not brown. Stir in tomato paste, cumin and red pepper flakes; stir and let cook about 3 minutes, allowing the tomato paste to change from red to rust in color. Add water and bring to boil. Reduce heat and put chicken and lamb (if using) into pot along. Add salt and the rest of the ingredients except for garbanzos and couscous. Simmer on very low heat for about 1½ hours.

Begin to prepare the couscous (see below). Add garbanzos to the stew and allow to heat through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place cooked couscous into a large serving dish and arrange meat and vegetables on top using a slotted spoon.

Serve harissa, cilantro and some of the cooking broth on the side.

Couscous:
Place couscous and raisins on a large baking sheet and add one cup of water. Mix couscous with water and spread evenly over baking sheet. Cover with a kitchen towel and let sit for 1/2 hour. Add one more cup of water and mix into couscous and break up any lumps with your fingers. Place couscous mixture in top portion of couscoussier or into a colander lined with cheesecloth, cover and sit atop stew to steam. Fluff with a fork before serving.